“Small thoroughfares twist and turn, lined with silver shops and cafes. It is a wonderful place to lose yourself.”
A true gem of Mexico, the old silver mining town of Taxco, is an excellent example of a Spanish Colonial town. The town is up in the mountains and the ride there is a long and windy road. Located 170 kilometers southwest from Mexico City and 5 hours north of Acapulco, the town is easily reached by bus or car. The riches of the silver mining past are evident in the architecture and the ambiance of the town. And even though the silver mine is running out of silver, the main industry of the town is handmade silver jewelry .
The city itself has been declared a national historical monument, even the Pemex gas station is built in the colonial style. The roads are small cobblestone paths, large enough only for small cars. Buses do not pass in the center of town and the traffic is very minimal. All of this leads to an atmosphere of history gone by. You feel as if you have turned back the pages of time.
In Taxco you will find some pretty spectacular views, too. The city itself is perched precariously on a steep mountainside. The higher you are in the city, the more you can see of the landscape. The main church was built by Don José de la Borda, a rich miner who made a fortune from the silver. The church, Templo de Santa Prisca, is a beautiful example of baroque architecture. The square in front of it is a great place to sit and watch the people. Walking is definitely a pastime here for all. Small thoroughfares twist and turn, lined with silver shops and cafes. It is a wonderful place to lose yourself. Another place to see the surrounding mountains and more buenas vistas, is up at the Monte Taxco resort. The resort is at the very top of the mountain and looks down at the city. A Swiss cable car runs from the bottom of the mountain to the top, and the view is pretty spectacular. Up at the top, you can see the true grandeur of the Sierra Madres as they rise and fall from every direction.
On thing in Taxco you cannot miss are the underground caverns called Las Grutas de Cacahuamilpa. Located 30 kilometers north of the town, they are easily reached by car or bus. When I first entered the cavern, I was bothered by a memory that I could not place. Then it came to me, the Disney movie, ‘Journey to the Center of the Earth’ was filmed here. And sure enough, our guide explained, many movies throughout the years were filmed at Las Grutas. The place is surreal. Lined with stalagmites and stalactites that are the size of grain silos, the path creeps down 3 kilometers into the earth. The formations are eerie and macabre, but fascinating. There is even a concert hall; many symphonies have performed here and one can only imagine how beautiful it might have sounded. You can get a guide to take you through and he will point out some of the more famous structures. (Its hard to find a tour guide in English, you might have to wait.). Once out of the caves, wander down the path to where the two underground rivers that help to form Las Grutas emerge from the earth. It a wonderful way to spend the day.
There are plenty of hotels and posadas in the Taxco area for all areas of budget. And, there are many restaurants around the town with all types of cuisine. Taxco is a wonderful place to visit and should be a mark on every traveler’s map.
-April 2000
